@jmwright That is some serious hardware. How many are up to dabbling with AI this afternoon? Of course, lowering the cost barrier for such dabbling can have unforeseen, almost always cool, effects.

i think that the main use for this will be in complicated control systems as applied to medical, industry, and military.

This is my hot water humidifier version b. It works better than the first attempt in that it does not get waterlogged then sink, due to the use of Styrofoam (vs packing foam in the first attempt) for the flotation function. There is also thin fiberglass top and bottom to avoid glue that did not work in hot water.

Fiberglass sheet is inexpensive, strong, and water-resistant. Working with it can be a pain, though, because fiberglass tends to quickly dull saw blades and drill bits. I have found that Black & Decker Very Thin Cutoff Disks work really well for cutting large holes in thin (.03") fiberglass sheet. That is the first photo.

For drilling holes, a 600-grit diamond attachment on the Dremel tool works as fast as a drill bit might. That is the second photo.

I needed to humidify the space where I grow mushrooms. This is a low-budget, fuss-free humidifier. Unlike commercial humidifiers, it does not require purified water. It works by heating water relative to the environment. Power can be controlled by plugging the cord into a variac or other transformer.

The plywood circle did not have sufficient buoyancy, so I glued some foam on top. The slot in the stainless tube accommodates the appendage on the cup heater to make it stay put.

@jmwright It looks like mostly a security patch. "To most people that all shouldn't matter at all..."

This is my slow-speed drill press. it works well for drilling large holes in soft materials and for making gaskets. Directions for making such abound on the 'net, but I just ordered belts and sheaves that I thought would work from McMaster-Carr. If I were to do this over again, I would start with a heftier drill press, and I would use timing belts/sheaves instead of v-belts. Timing belts don't need as much tension to avoid slippage.

There are hurdles to Psychotria viridis cultivation in the southwest American desert: Occasionally freezing weather is one of them. I designed and constructed a soil heater. Materials: fiberglass tubing from Max Gain Systems, RT-12, OD .5", ID .25". Also nichrome wire, 26 gauge at 2.6 ohms/foot. I pushed the wire into teflon 22 gauge teflon tubing before inserting it into the fiberglass tubing. Total resistance is 122 ohms = 108 watts for 115 VAC power.

I needed to create a roof for my shroom fruiting box to provide fresh air and blue light. All LED strips are 12V, and go to one end of a Kobiconn 163-4021 panel connector. The wood was too thick for that connector, so I reduced the thickness with a 13/16 forstner bit. The other photo shows the 12V fans, wired to a CUI PJ-202AH connector which I had to mount to a small piece of fiberglass, which is then mounted on little standoffs. The same CUI PP3-002A plug will mate to both connectors.

I created a strong table because the old card table was not strong enough for the new shroom fruiting box that features a 5 gallon water reservoir (more on that, later). I used mending plates for most of the fastening:

homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong

Prototyping surface mount hardware is intimidating at best. This guy featured on Hackaday has been there, done that. I really like his modified exacto tool for scratching copper from PCBs. And check the comments here, also. Expertise is everywhere you look.

hackaday.com/2020/05/24/ironcl

@Linux

Here is my concern: I produce a video, then I want to share it. If I choose a peertube instance, what happens if the maintainer of that instance loses interest or gets shmucked by a truck?

Here is an open-source lab-grade scale, made via 3D printing and run on an arduino.

mdpi.com/2410-390X/4/3/18/htm

@jmwright Waaaait a minute. Software isn't my strong point, but I know a GUI when I see one. Is not FreeCAD a GUI front end for OpenCascade? I am using FreeCAD at the moment. I might even post about it.

@jmwright "This is the first stable release after moving from FreeCAD to PythonOCC" What does that mean?

Two photos: One is a set of breaking fixtures, as I like to call them. I created them for the purpose of strength testing my new glass-based material. The older, smaller breaking fixture is at top, followed by the larger, later fixture. Below that is a bar of my new material. Below that is a mold for casting such bars. I cover the mold with aluminum tape to increase moisture retention. The second photo is the breaking fixture in action. The force sensor is FC2211-0000-0025-L from Mouser.

@rixx Learn to solder: no-solder breadboards are unreliable shit.
Learn to braze. Nobody taught me. I watched a few vids, bought stuff, made mistakes.
Learn analog design. Significant, useful competence can be had in a few tens of hours. And cockroft-walton voltage multipliers are fun!

@Sylphox This Makerdon forum is, of course, a good place. Another good place is the Openmaker forum on MeWe: mewe.com/join/openmaker
There, you will not run into the 500-character limit that frequently has frustrated me.

I added a couple pieces of wood to raise to work level to where the particle-free breeze is blowing.

I am delighted with the HEPA air source performance for sterile transfers. I was able to transfer mycelium from petri dish to syringe to culturing jars without contamination. I was also able to pour agar from a flask into petri dishes without any contamination. This perfect outcome was not possible using my still air box.

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I have struggled with using a still-air box (plus bleach spray, gloves, and sleeves) for sterile work with spotty success. So I decided to obtain a HEPA air source. Sticker shock → build my own.
I used a hammock filter as a pre-filter.That way, it could be big, minimizing back-pressure. Here is the HEPA air source half finished.
I used hardware cloth (coarse galvanized screen) held in place by wood chips and Weldwood contact adhesive to hold the cut hammock filter in place.

@hackerfriendly The gasket on my pressure cooker was unblemished, but old. Now I see why I couldn't reach 15 psi: the gasket was stiff. The new, more flexible gasket fixed the problem.

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